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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.